Wave input reduction approach to compute the alongshore distribution of breaking wave conditions along the North Médoc coast
Résumé
This study introduce an input reduction (IR) methodology that we developed specifically to enhance computational efficiency in nearshore wave modeling for the complex area of the Nord Médoc coast, adjacent to one of the margest estuary in Europe (Gironde). This methodology combines simulated annealing optimization with wave modeling. We apply it to an extensive 15-year offshore wave time series obtained from MARC's WavevatchIII-based simulaton and prediction system (LOPS). The IR effectiveness is assessed by comparinf the original and simplified offshore wave time series, simulated with the spectral wave model SWAN, at three nearshore locations in our study zone. Results indicate a strong agreement nearshore between the original and simplified offshore wave time series, with mean absolute errors ranging from 8 to 20 cm for the significant wave height, 0.7 to 1 s for peak wave period and 1.2 to 3.8° for wave direction. Using an optimal number of 30 clusters, the simulated annealing optimization affectively clusters wave data. Further validation of this IR-method involves analyzing its impact on long-term sediment transport using a reduced complexity shoreline model (LX-shore). This study lays the groundwork for the set-up of the reduced-complexity shoreline model to be applied in this intricate hydro-morphodynamic zone.
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