%0 Journal Article %T On the Predictability of Mid-term Cross-shore Profile Evolution %+ Departament de Fisica Aplicada %+ Departament de Fisica Aplicada (UPC) %+ Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya [Barcelona] (UPC) %+ Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) (BRGM) %A Fernandez Morà, Angels %A Calvete, Daniel %A Falqués, Albert %A Ribas, Francesca %A Idier, Déborah %Z In: International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2013 Proceedings (Plymouth, United Kingdom) %< avec comité de lecture %@ 0749-0208 %J Journal of Coastal Research %I Coastal Education and Research Foundation %V Special Issue N°65 %P 476-481 %8 2013 %D 2013 %R 10.2112/SI65-081.1 %Z Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/OceanographyJournal articles %X The aim of the present study is to analyse the mid-term beach profile evolution, considering the hypothesis that the alongshore processes can be neglected for the prediction of the mean profile evolution. To this end, a process-based model for the evolution of the cross-shore profile has been used. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, accounting for the effects of wave skewness and asymmetry on sediment transport. Offshore waves and tides conditions and bathymetric profiles measured at the FRF-USACE Duck are used to simulate a mid-term (72 days) onshore sandbar migration event. The model results agree with observed onshore movement and growth of the sandbar due to the inclusion of the intra-wave oscillatory flow with the skewness and asymmetry effects. The best predictions belongs to the averaging of the modelled evolution of individual cross-shore profiles that is better than the evolution of the mean cross-shore profile since.it takes into account the alongshore variability of the cross-shore profiles. These two methods result on better predictions than the individual profiles during the entire event. %G English %Z CARNOT %Z collaboration with UPC %L hal-00821186 %U https://brgm.hal.science/hal-00821186 %~ BRGM %~ GIP-BE